Longstaff Tom George

(15.01.1875 - 27.06.1964)


English doctor, explorer and mountaineer. He was the first person to rise to more than 7,000 meters in the Pakistani Himalayas in 1907. He was president of the (British) Alpine Club from 1947 to 1949 and one of the founders of the Alpine Ski Club in 1908.

Longstaff was the eldest son of Lieutenant Colonel Llewellyn V. Longstaff - the most generous supporter of the national Antarctic expedition, Captain Scott. Longstaff   was educated at Eton College, Christ Church, Oxford, and at St. Thomas London Hospital.

During the World Wars he served in various units of the English army.

The most famous Longstaff received as a member of the serious high-altitude expeditions in various regions of the globe.

He made ascents in the Alps, the Caucasus, the Himalayas, Selkirk, the Rockies, Greenland and Spitsbergen.

Before World War I, he traveled to Tibet in 1905, climbed Trisula in the Himalayas in 1907, and in 1908 was awarded the Royal Geographical Society by the Jill Memorial for his work in the Himalayas and Tibet. He continued to explore the Siachen Glacier and discovered the summits of Theram Kangri in 1909.

After the war  he took part in the expedition of the University of Oxford to Spitsbergen in 1921 and was the chief physician and naturalist on the British expedition to Everest in 1922, returned to Svalbard in 1923 and in Garhwal Himalayas in 1927.

In 1928  Longstaff led an expedition to Oxford University in Greenland and in the same year was awarded the Medal of the Founder of the Royal Geographical Society for his work in the Himalayas, especially for the discovery of the Siachen Glacier. He traveled to Greenland in 1931 and 1934  and on Earth Baffin in 1934.

Longstaff lived in Achiltibuy, in the highlands of Scotland, where he died in old age.

A glacier on the northeast coast of the Waide fjord in the north of the Ny-Friesland peninsula. The coordinates are 79° 45'N   16° 00'E.


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